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I've quit my full-time job. I have a few highlights from the past year to post before I go on several trips during the rest of 2010.

Most notably, I'll be leaving for a 4-week trip to Milan, Florence, Rome, Naples, Barcelona, Madrid, and Lisbon in October.

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Thursday
Oct222009

Mishima-Tei - 三嶋亭

Been an extremely hectic week of work - sorry for the lack of posting. I leave tomorrow night for a quick trip to New York City, so good eats are forthcoming. In the meantime, I've got a few more meals from Japan to post.

Our next dinner was at Mishima-Tei, a famous sukiyaki house/meat market established in 1873. It's still in the original building, which is funny considering it's now under the bright lights of Teramachi Street. Inside, it's totally old school. You take off your shoes in a little entry area, then climb up and down a few little stairways to eventually to find one of several scattered private rooms. There, they set you up with everything required to cook at the table.

Sukiyaki is just one of many ways you can cook high-quality Japanese beef. This was my second visit here, so I knew what to expect. Though I still think teppanyaki is the best way to eat Japanese beef, sukiyaki is a nice change of pace, and Mishima-Tei is certainly a good place to check out the cooking style. They also offer shabu-shabu and what they call "oil-yaki," which seems to be a simple sear.

And hey, they even offer an Engrish menu for us gaijin! I love slised meat with soy source. Not surprisingly, we went with the Mishima-Tei "Grand class Meat" at ¥11,000, which basically comes with everything.

 

INGREDIENTS PRE-COOKINGA very polite Japanese lady came out with a huge tray of ingredients, containing our beef, a basket of veggies, and a bunch of sauce plus sugar.

 

GRAND CLASS MEATHere's a closer shot of our "Grand class Meat." The language barrier left a more detailed explanation of the beef's origins a mystery, but as you can see... it was very, very marbled.

 

EARLY COOKING ACTIONOur friendly Japanese waitress/chef started by dumping a ton of sugar into our little iron pot, then lining up a bunch of beef and pouring some soy sauce over the whole thing. They pretty much do all the cooking for you, so you don't have to worry about messing anything up.

 

JUST ABOUT DONEHere's the first batch of beef, well-dressed in sauce and just about ready to eat. Cooking does not take long at all.

 

COOKED BEEF WITH EGGThe other cool thing about sukiyaki is that you basically use a raw, beaten egg as your dipping sauce. It makes for a much gooeyer texture than teppanyaki, but an incredibly soft and tender texture. It requires minimal chewing and works amazingly well with rice. The flavor is very rich as you might expect, with a good amount of sweetness from the sugar.

 

BEEF WITH VEGGIESAfter an initial round of all beef, some veggies went into the pot too. Tofu, onions, mushrooms, scallions, a green called shungiku, and some chewy noodles made from konnyaku were used - all pretty standard sukiyaki sides. They all become delicious after soaking up the marbled juices seeping from the beef.

Here's some video action of the cooking in process. I guess I didn't pick the most exciting part to film, but you get the idea. I was busy eating immediately when it was cooked. Also included is some unedited bonus material that I call "Che family musings on sukiyaki sauce."

 

PEAR AND HONEY DEWA simple serving of fruit at the end was perfect and very refreshing after the richness of the meat.

Overall, a very good meal, and an important pit stop on the neverending path of Japanese cuisine. I'll admit sukiyaki doesn't excite me as much as sushi or teppanyaki, but it's still a fun and delicious experience. Check it out!

Reader Comments (5)

Nahh, sukiyaki is way better than teppanyaki. 笑

I had a very bad experience at the same resto some years ago and have not been back since. I do get my beef for New Year's sukiyaki from their store in Daimaru Department Store. They certainly have great Japanese beef.

Glad to hear that you enjoyed it. Recently (in recent years) I have been going to Iroha in Ponto-cho. (There are two, I go to the one farther north from Shijo Street.) As someone that has been to Mishima-tei recently, I would be interested to hear what you think of Iroha.

Another great beef joint in Kyoto is Jyunidan-ya located in Gion on Hanami-koji. I have only been here for lunch but this is quite a storied resto. It is one of the first two restos to serve sukiyaki -- they halfway invented the dish. The interior is very, very nostalgic. Neil Armstrong came here for dinner after he got back from the moon.
Thursday, October 29, 2009 at 7:19AM | Unregistered CommenterMichael [OpenKyoto]
Hi Michael. Actually, we went to check out Iroha in Ponto-cho too... actually we walked up to it to scope it out. But for some reason the night we wanted to go it seemed to be closed. So we just went back to Mishima-tei. :) Glad to hear it is good though... we'll plan to try next time!
Thursday, October 29, 2009 at 11:04PM | Registered CommenterArthur Che
Michael, I am very curious about Jyunidan-ya. Is there any article about it that you could point me to? I assume they don't have a website. I am always fascinated by these pioneering restaurants (and Ryokan's) that survive hundreds of years - one can only find them in Japan. I often go to a humble oyako-don place in Ningyocho in Tokyo, which is hundreds of years (400?) old and allegedly created the humble dish. And next door to it is a 100-year old coffee shop. I cannot pretend to be nostalgic about these places, since I am not even Japanese. But they are just unique and almost invariably serve amazingly good food.

On your other comment on Yoshikawa, I have been going there for years, and twice this year. I even stayed at the inn a couple of times. Absolutely my favorite tempura restaurant, even compared to some well known places in Tokyo. Then again is there another great tempura place you can recommend in Kyoto for comparison. I often miss a real tempura meal when I am in San Francisco and would always go for a tempura meal, or two, when I am in Japan.
Friday, October 30, 2009 at 6:41PM | Unregistered CommenterRaphael Che
For Tempura in Kyoto I very much like Tempura Yasaka Endoh. I feel it is a little better than Yoshikawa. I try to go at least once when I am in Kyoto. Bring an appetite as even the least expensive course is very filling.

http://www.gion-endo.com/english/index.html

For sukiyaki: We at Iroha last night. It is one of my favorite sukiyaki places in Kyoto. And the price is very good when compared to Mishima Tei. BUT, we will try Mishima Tai tonight and see how it compares.
Saturday, December 5, 2009 at 6:06PM | Unregistered CommenterDavid B.
This is a very informative article. I am glad to have discovered your blog. I will definitely promote this blog among my circle of friends
Sunday, August 8, 2010 at 3:08AM | Unregistered CommenterNaples restaurants

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