this post is filed under Cuisine - Contemporary, Location - San Francisco
Now this post is gonna be a real treat. I was lucky enough to go to the acclaimed Michael Mina with my dad and Geoff. Michael Mina has a very strong pedigree, with a history that includes Aqua and Charles Nob Hill (but also the ill-fated Redwood Park). The Aqua empire has spread quite significantly, with major projects going on at the Bellagio and MGM Grand in Las Vegas as well. Michael Mina is Mina's new flagship, right at the heart of Union Square in the St. Francis Hotel, and is probably the hottest restaurant opening of 2004. Geoff was a bit excited for this meal because he apparently saw a Food Network special back home about the construction of this place. The restaurant is in the hotel lobby, up some stairs in a massive, open-air space. The decor is clean and simple, with huge columns rising up to the ceiling. The result is a dining room that is at once professional (even formal) but at the same time comforting and relaxed. Simply put - the place looks great.
The place has a few options for ordering. You can get a $78 three-course meal, which is deceiving because each course takes an ingredient and serves it in a multitude of different ways (as many as six!). There are also two $120 seven-course tasting menu options - one is a seasonal tasting menu, while the other is Michael's classic menu, which includes many of the dishes that made Mina famous. I chose the classic menu.
osetra caviar, creme fraiche, smoked salmon, egg, fried potato cake
This was the freebie opener. My dad and Geoff, who both got the seasonal tasting, got a slightly different caviar based dish. This thing was delicious. I've never particularly loved caviar, but in this dish it was perfect, a great combination with the salmon and the potato cake. I thought it was a little funny to combine caviar with something as simple as a hash brown, but I love hash browns, and it turns out they're a perfect starch to soak up the saltiness of the caviar and the salmon. It was also pretty decently sized - perhaps too big to be considered an amuse bouche!
ahi tuna tartare, scotch bonnet peppers, sesame oil
Tuna tartare seems pretty much ubiquitous nowadays, but I think Mina deserves credit for popularizing the dish at Aqua - it's still the restaurant's specialty. Michael Mina's tuna tartare is mixed at the table as it should be, and as delicious as I remember it at Aqua. I think the thing that really makes this tartare is the use of scotch bonnet (aka habanero), which gives the tuna a legitimate kick that is not found in any other version I've tried.
lobster pot pie, brandied lobster cream, seasonal vegetables
I wish I could have gotten a picture of this as it was being served. It came out still in the pot, with the pie pastry still covering it. The waiter served it by peeling the pie (almost like a puff pastry) off, putting it on the plate, then carefully placing the ingredients and pouring the sauce over it all. As a result the pie part is kind of buried, but believe me it's there, under the lobster. And boy was it delicious - tender lobster, flaky pie, and a mouthwatering sauce. It was almost like an extremely rich lobster bisque. As you have probably guessed, I soaked up every last drop with my bread.
miso glazed sea bass in consomme, shiitake, bok choy, scallop dumpling
I'm often a bit weary about these Asian-style Western dishes, but this one was excellent. The fish was cooked perfectly and melted in my mouth. Neither the soy nor the miso were overpowering. The scallop dumpling was creative and delicious, though I admit the skin was not as good as a great Chinese dumpling's can be.
roasted foie gras, maui gold pineapple, young ginger
The menu listed just the roasted foie gras, but there was also a torchon which you can see at the back. Both were good, but I preferred the hot one. It had a nice subtle glaze, and didn't have the big chunks of overly sweet candied fruit that foie gras always seems to come with. The brioche was nice as well.
pan fried poussin, truffled macaroni and cheese
By far, the lowlight of the meal. My dad, also underwhelmed by his poultry course, played devil's advocate and argued that poultry is often the hardest course to make "special" so to speak. My poussin was just okay, but I remember a few bites of it being a little dry. The macaroni and cheese had too much cheese and sauce going on to really get a good taste of truffle. The only disappointing dish of the night. The side of veggies (I think that's broccolini!) was crisp and delicious.
steak rossini, seared foie gras, pinot noir sauce
The steak course almost made me order the seasonal tasting - their version had some kind of Kobe rib roast that sounded great. But I was reassured by the presence of the seared foie gras and soldiered on. This dish, though not quite as good as the Kobe version across the table, was still wonderful. The sauce was a great complement, perhaps even more so to the foie gras than to the steak. The side was a sort of potato au gratin, and very yummy.
banana tarte tatin, caramel sauce, cinnamon ice cream
Whatever points the classic menu lost to the seasonal one on the steak course, they were made up with dessert. This banana tarte tatin really hit on all cylinders. The tarte was smooth, rich, and not too sweet. The intense banana flavor matched with the subtle cinnamon ice cream was a perfect combination. In other words, I really, really liked this dessert.
milk chocolate bon bons with espresso ice cream, dark chocolate bon bons with raspberry sorbet
From what I understand, every meal at Michael Mina ends with the presentation of these bon bons in 2 flavors. They were both delicious and refreshing... I just wish I had a box of them in my freezer. The presentation was delightful.
Overall, our meal at Michael Mina was fabulous, even despite high expectations going in. Only the poussin wasn't extremely good (that doesn't mean it was bad - just decent), and I'll let them slide on 1 out of 9 items. The service was impeccably professional, and not the least bit pretentious or snotty, especially given that Geoff and I were proabbly by far the two youngest people in the whole restaurant. Also note that my shoddy photography does not do justice to the presentation of the dishes - everything looked as beautiful as it tasted. Some of the dishes from the regular 3 course tasting that we saw floating around the room looked even more impressive. Mina apparently spent a significant amount of time designing china and plates and whatnot, and you can tell some of them are custom-made specifically for certain things on the menu. My dad thinks Michael Mina is now the place to be in SF proper for high-end fancy dining, and from what I've tried I think I can agree.
I... I've just never seen food that looked so good... when I saw the chocolate desserts in your archives, tears came to my eyes.
Your life must be great, in heaven with this kind of food...
But don't you wish that expensive restaurants looked for not only presentation, service, and taste, but also satisfaction in terms of fullness and how 'good' you feel afterwards (I like to be full and happy but not full and sick like after Chinese food)??
Makes me angry to see a beautiful lobster plate except the lobster tail is the size of my finger and half a grape and a piece of carrot next to it.
posted by vince on March 10, 2005 06:02 PM
Your review is really enjoyable to read, even for a participant of the dinner. To elaborate my point about poultry, while it's hard to make poultry courses "special", a well prepared bird of any size (chicken, duck, goose, squab, quail, rice-bird,etc.), except perhaps turkey, is often much more memorable than most meat and fish dishes. I think the problem with poultry preparation in US restaurants has to do with the bird itself, rather than the skill of the chef. Our birds in my view are simply either too big and flavorless (the mass produced kind), or too lean and not juicy enough (your typical free range kind). And birds don't travel well and their meat loses its fresh texture if they are imported. Hence even a Bresse chicken will taste inferior outside of France.
I have had some very memorable poultry dishes, particularly in France, HK/China and Japan. And most of them were cooked in a simple way. So it must have to do with the excellent birds you find in these places.posted by Raphael on March 10, 2005 06:15 PM
Wonderful review, Arthur. I'm so glad someone else really enjoyed their meal there... I was beginning to think I was the only one.
However, have now been to the Ritz with Siegel at the helm, I have to admit that the mastery of cuisine and the grace and elegance of the Ritz top MM, by a long shot.
posted by Fatemeh on March 10, 2005 07:06 PM
Vince:
Most of us in the restaurant business do want people to leave satisfied on every level.
If a person were to order only one the 9 courses Arthur had indeed he would not be full but I think only a competitive easter could choke down 9 courses of 6-8 oz of proteins, plus vegetables and starches.
posted by haddock on March 10, 2005 11:22 PM
Vince - I certainly agree with you; there is no worse feeling than leaving an expensive meal still hungry. Rest assured though that dinner at Michael Mina left the three of us just the right amount of full - perfectly satisfied without feeling overly stuffed to the point of sickness. All of the dishes were very decently portioned, especially considering the meal was in total 9 courses. Also, I won't ever hesitate to report it when food makes me feel sick - I'd hate for others to suffer the same fate! :)
Dad - point well taken! I do look forward to trying a Bresse chicken in France...
Fatemeh - I must admit I've never been to the Ritz Dining Room at all, past or present. From what you describe, it sounds very promising!
haddock - indeed, with the number of courses, I don't expect a ton on each plate. I can hold my own but I'm not as big of an eater as some people I know - except maybe when it comes to sushi...
posted by Arthur on March 11, 2005 03:05 PM
My favorite city next to Manhattan where civilized dining is a norm not an exception. SF is easier to escape to on short notice and I've eaten my way through the city and wine country. Just made reservations again at the Ritz (in a class by itself and now with Siegel - curious about his "Iron" standards!)Will return to Zuni cafe - a true tribute to SF's spirit - love the space,the energy... and most of all the morsels.Hope you'll make it to the French Laundry and Auberge du soleil in Napa and Rutherford -pure nirvana!
posted by Sue on March 22, 2005 02:12 PM
I too have heard the Ritz is excellent now. I have a post about Zuni coming up soon.
I went to FL years ago, but haven't been back recently. I also miss Bistro Jeanty over there in Yountville...
posted by Arthur on March 22, 2005 08:09 PM
Thanks for the great pictures. We are going to MM tonight. I can't wait. I think I'll take pictures too. Just graduated from culinary school, so I am eager to see their 3-ways take on food. Have you ever been to Farallon? It is one of my favorites.
posted by sarah on March 26, 2005 06:00 PM
Sarah - I went to Farallon once many years ago, not too long after it opened. It was good, and the design of the place is really awesome. Haven't been back for some reason though... guess there's just too many places to try, and I'm not in SF enough.
posted by Arthur on March 27, 2005 02:47 PM
You responded to my inquiry about Tartare, much appreciated. As it turns out, I'm a big fan of Michael Mina. I've been to Aqua in SF when Mina was still there, and the one in Vegas, along with two trips to Nobhill in Vegas. Mina truly makes for an 'experience,' the total package of ambience, food, and presentation. My wife and I already have reservations at Michael Mina in April, we'll probably end up trying Frisson too. My wife won't eat raw food, Tartare probably wouldn't be her thing, maybe for lunch, though.
posted by Mike(elrushbo) on March 27, 2005 04:19 PM
It's been years since I've been to Aqua, but I loved the last meal I had there - the tuna tartare and also the foie gras main dish. The man can definitely cook.
posted by Arthur on March 30, 2005 12:38 AM
I enjoyed your review, Arthur, and am amazed that your photos were as good as they are. Usually restaurants are so dark, and one has to write and photograph furtively. Regarding the comments aobut poultry: two of my 5 most memorable dishes of all time were a chicken ballotine by John Ash (25 yrs ago), and a simple roast chicken by an unknown chef at Equus in Santa Rosa 6 yrs ago: our first bites left my husband and me completely speechless. We fought for the last shreds of it, and it transcended by a mile everything we'd eaten at French Laundry and Chez Panisse (two very over-rated restaurants.). So, I think the quality of the chicken, as well as a deft touch, are key.
posted by Diane on June 16, 2005 06:38 PM
good review! i was just there last night--it was FANTASTIC (though I am/was not an Aqua fan). One of teh best restaurants in SF (rivalling Fleur de Lys). Totally decadent, impeccable service --and I loved the oversized dinner napkins! Finally a napkin with coverage. :)
posted by C(h)ristine on November 3, 2005 09:35 PM
Diane - obviously way late on this reply, but I guess I missed your comment when you made it. Indeed, your story shows how hard chicken is to perfect.
Christine - good to hear you had a good meal there. I haven't been to Fleur de Lys since I was a very little kid, and I don't remember anything about it. It's probably worth trying again!
posted by Arthur on November 8, 2005 07:08 AM
http://www.alinearestaurant.com
I emailed you about this place, I would love to see a review with pics of this place on your site, it looks like a place worth traveling to Chicago for with all the buzz it's getting
posted by Mike on February 21, 2006 11:07 AM